This morning we got up to cloudy skies and still a bit cool for summer weather. However it was not raining so we have no complaints. We decided that we would take a look at the ocean which is beside the park close enough for us to hear the waves crashing on shore all night. So we wondered over hill and across the ball park and up the sand dune to find a beautiful beach. The waves were large so I suspect a storm of some sort in the Southern Pacific Ocean. We had a really nice walk along the beach just to enjoy the sand and surf. However we could only go for about 45 minutes since we had a full day planned.
We decided that before we left Dunedin we would drive up the Otago Peninsula to Taiaroa Head. This Peninsula which has the Otago Harbour, is known for it large variety of wildlife and in particular the Northern Royal Albatross and Yellow Eyed Penguins which we wanted to see.
The scenic road followed the coastline and reminded us of driving along parts of Stanley Park in Vancouver. However there was just the narrow road, hill on the right and sea on the left with no barriers. The books warned about driving carefully to avoid being in the water and the book was very accurate. Having said that, as long as you drove carefully and slowly, avoided front ending oncoming traffic and watched out for the bikers or hikers, it was an enjoyable drive. We also enjoyed some great views and Wes was snapping photos as I drove – we call this the drive by shooting.
Our first port of call was the Taiaroa Head to visit the Royal Albatross Center. We arrived and learned that the next tour was starting in about 3 minutes so timing was great. We signed up to have a tour of both the Royal Albatross nesting area where we would be able to view young birds as well as adults and a tour of the ‘fortifications’ of the Taiaroa Head.
The first part of the tour took us up to an observation room built into the land so we can view the birds without interfering with them at all. We were able to view nests with adults sitting on the eggs as well as a large flock of Shags below with their nests. We learned about the Albatross’s life patterns and how they fly for up to a year never landing on land but only on water. They circle the Antarctic but only nest in certain areas. These are fascinating birds and I encourage you to google for more details that I am including here. Our highlight was to watch a bird with at wing span estimated to be about 10 meters fly around putting on an acrobatic show for us. It was hard not to be taking lots of pictures.
We then carried on to tour the tunnels which housed the defenses and gunneries on the Head. This area has been used as a defensive position for the past 700 years by the different peoples living here. The Maori established a permanent settlement at Otakou on the coast 6 kms south and a fortified village was built at Taiaroa Head. In 1885 with the threat of war between Britain and Russia, the construction of Fort Taiaroa began. The addition fo barracks and militiamen meant that by the turn of the century there were 100 people living permanently at Taiaroa Head.
The Armstrong Disappearing Gun was installed and ready for action by 1889. It has only been fired for practise and never in defense. This gun is a 6 inch breech loaded (first successful breech loaded ever designed that worked), built on a hydro-pneumatic carriage. Sited in an underground pit, the gun was aimed and loaded while below ground. The retracting carriage used a hand pumped water and air ram system to raise the gun into the firing position above ground. Once the gun was fired, it would return to the pit by the sheer force of the recoil and be ready for reloading. All the defences were linked by tunnels which are still in place today, but the gunneries have been decommissioned.
Our next port of call was the Penguin Place, Yellow Eyed Penguin Conservation Reserve. By this time it was noon and we thought we would check out the times for tours and then think about lunch. However as we arrived we were told that the next tour was leaving in about 2 minutes so we skipped lunch for the time being and went for the tour. The reserve is a private conservation effort to save the world’s most endangered penguin from extinction. They have a ‘penguin hospital’ to support the program. After we were given a short talk about the penguins we actually were able to tour the hospital and see a few adult penguins being treated and one baby (there because the dad was sick and could not be left alone).
We then hopped onto a bus and were driven to the beach where we were able to observe the colony. Now we were not expecting to see any adults since they go fishing all day and return around dusk at night. However the babies are left behind and we were sure to be able to see them. The viewing of the area is done through a unique system of hides and tunnels. The tunnels are about half underground and the top is camouflaged. In this way we actually were able to get fairly close to nests and birds of a variety of types (ducks, blue herons, gulls, etc.)
Our first delight was to find that an adult had returned from fishing early (the tour guide was stumped too as to why) but was standing along the pond in clear view. We had to use zooms to get pictures but this was a unexpected treat. We were able to focus on several nests and find baby penguins sleeping. There was one nest along the path to see the seals that was about 3 feet away. The baby here actually stood up and watched us go by so we were able to get really close up pictures.
We also we were looking at nests of the Blue Penguins but we could not see them since the nests are very small and they were hunkered down deep in the nests. Maybe later we will find some to see. Yes we did see fur seals again as well.
Our third stop today was at Larnach Castle. Larnach Castle (often incorrectly referred to as "Larnach's Castle"), is an imposing mansion on the ridge of Otago Peninsula within the limits of the city of Dunedin, New Zealand. It is one of only two castles in New Zealand, the other of which (Cargill's Castle, also in Dunedin) is now a ruin. For this reason it is often referred as New Zealand's only castle. It is also one of New Zealand's few "stately houses".
The castle was built between 1873 and 1887 as the residence of William Larnach, a prominent entrepreneur and politician in colonial New Zealand. Much of the construction was carried out under the guidance of local architect R.A. Lawson, who was also responsible for many of the other fine buildings in Dunedin. The finished building contained 43 rooms plus a ballroom, and required a staff of 46 servants.
Sadly, the building, which Larnach himself simply called "The Camp," did nothing to stop his own downfall. After a series of personal and financial disasters he committed suicide in New Zealand's Parliament Buildings in October 1898. The castle's ballroom is reputedly haunted by the ghost of Larnach's daughter Katie, who died days after her 21st birthday.
The building, which had fallen into a state of disrepair, was bought by Barry and Margaret Barker in 1967, and has since been restored to its full glory. Spectacular views of the Otago Peninsula and Harbour can be gained from the castle, which is 10 kilometres by road from the city centre. Larnach Castle is now seen as one of the jewels in Dunedin's tourist crown.
Our tour started with walking through the gardens. Then we did a tour of the castle itself. Although we could take pictures of the gardens we were not permitted to take pictures inside the castle so I have nothing to show you of the incredible quality of work and workmanship that went into the building. I wish I could show the craftsmanship and detail of the wood carvings in the ceilings that took 3 people 6 ½ years to complete and install. In addition to wood carvings there are also plaster grapes and vines in the Dining room that show skill and talent. In the main foyer is a wall of glass with hand etched Venetian glass with etchings of the rose of England, shamrock of Ireland, silver fern from New Zealand and the Scottish thistle. There was so much to see that it would be difficult to cover it all. The main building had 4 levels with the basement, main floor (main foyer, music room, library, drawing room, pantry, dining room and kitchen area now used as Administration), second floor (master bedroom and 2 other bedrooms), and the top floor (Children’s bedroom, nanny’s room, Tower room for view and entrance to spiral stairs to turret).
By the time we had done all three of these incredible tours today we realized that our plan to move on to the next town was not practical. We were both tired and really had no reason to drive for an hour or more so instead we returned to the camp ground we stayed at last night and settled in for another night.
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