In the morning we woke to find a high cloudy day. We are not familiar with this region but we did not feel like it would rain. If not, then having a cloud cover would mean that it would be more comfortable hiking around. We learned about "Clifftop walk" (3 1/2 hours one-way along the heights of the coast north of the cape) with the beginning of Farewell Spit, and having stunning vistas of the Tasman Sea to one side, of the sanddunes in the northeast and of the towering cliffs and rocky, primal landscapes to the shoreward (east) side. Our host offered (for $10 each) to drive us to the Farewell Spit end of the tramp and we would walk back to Wharariki Beach and then back to the campsite. However, he pointed out that the trek had to match the tides since when we arrive back at the beach we would need to be able to be there at low tide. So we arranged to start the trek at 11.
So we had a couple of hours so of course that meant we would walk back down to the beach to see it at full tide. The breeze was up but it was still a very nice morning to walk along the beach and enjoy the feeling of sand and water. However, much of the beach was not accessible at this time and of course the rocks that the seals were laying on was well out in the water. This beach is shallow so when the tide is in, there is not much beach and when it is out, there is so much.
As we returned to the campsite we met a lot of people coming down to the beach carrying surf boards. This surprised me since I did not think there was enough wave to surf with, but I am not a surfer so maybe. At any rate, we wanted to get started on our tramp (hiking).
We were driven to the beginning of the trail which was very interesting. We actually started by walking through several fields of sheep (and sheep droppings). There is no actual path to follow, but there are tall posts placed like we would place ribbons on trees to provide the directions. I am amazed at how thick the grass grows here and this trek is not done enough to actually carve out a path through the pastures. I also should point out that the hills here go up and down often and steeply. It is nothing to drop down a steep hill a couple hundred feet only to climb up the same distance again. This oscillating terrain at this end was the reason that it was pasture for sheep.
The views from the top of each of the ‘hills’ was spectacular. We could look out towards the Farewell Spit but could not see the end of it. We could look down into the Golden Bay in one direction and out into the Tasman Sea in the other. We had 360 degree views every time we reached the top of a hill.
Eventually we moved out of the patures into more rocky and rugged land that started to mark the beginning of “Old Man Range” which has the “Pillar Point” and light house. We found ourselves climbing up and down sandstone and granite trails as we head to the summit which is the premiere lookout in all directions. We still can not see the end of the Spit but definitely can appreciate the size and length. While sitting at this great vista location we were joined by the horse riders who were riding a tour. It was fun to see the horses, but I am thinking that I prefer to be on my own feet.
After lunch we head down towards Wharariki Beach but before we get there we actually tramp along Cape Farewell. Again we are surprised at the number of people who are in this area but then there is a road that brings them up to the parking lot. (Yes it is a gravel road here too). The views of the Cape and the arch is well worth the trip (walking or driving). From this point we continue along the coastline but now we are back to pastures. The first hill we climbed as we left was at least 300 feet and it was virtually straight up. I was very pleased at how well we did in meeting the challenge of the constant climbing up and down along this route. What is really exciting is that this stretch of the tramp is along the cliffs. The green grass grows right up to the edge and the drop would be final. We wondered if any of the sheep who are grazing all around us ever fell.
We finally came to the end of the trek by clambering down a rock face back to the beach. Once at the beach we had to walk through a creek to get to the beach which really was wonderful on our feet. We had been told that the trek should take 3 ½ hours and we arrived in 3 hours including a lunch break. However, it is low tide and we decide it is time to take a rest on the beach. Wes could sleep on the sand but I am not able so we only hung around the beach for about an hour and Wes got about 15 minutes to sleep.
By the way, the surfers I mentioned earlier? Well the waves were not large enough to do any surfing, but they were large enough for the group to ride the boards for short (very short) distances and use the boards like body surfing. The water is not recommended for swimming but I do not think anyone worried about that.
We had a great day and the only things to report was the fact that today is my birthday and Wes had forgot. It was not until I was chatting with a guy while we were making dinner that he mentioned that today was his birthday – so I commented that it was mine as well which Wes over heard and thus remembered. He claims that back home it was not my birthday so actually I was getting it early. Good try Wes.
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